If you’re looking for one of the largest hardy hostas available, Sum and Substance is usually the one to choose. It’s a massive chartreuse-to-gold cultivar that grows 2-3 feet tall and 5-6 feet wide, thrives in USDA hardiness zones 3-8 (with some nurseries listing it to zone 9), and is generally more sun-tolerant than most hosta cultivars. It was named Hosta of the Year by the American Hosta Growers Association in 2004, and is currently one of the most popular hosta cultivars among American garden centers.
Here’s everything you need to know to grow this spectacular hosta, including its light, soil, and spacing needs, seasonal growing tips, and the common mistakes that cause this hosta to fail to grow to its full size.
Quick Facts
| Trait | Detail |
|---|---|
| Mature size | 2–3 ft tall, 5–6 ft wide (occasionally larger under ideal conditions) |
| USDA Hardiness Zones | 3–8, with some sources listing 3–9 |
| Light | Part sun to full shade; morning sun with afternoon shade is often ideal |
| Foliage | Thick, corrugated, chartreuse turning gold as the season progresses |
| Flowers | Pale lavender, midsummer, on tall scapes |
| Soil | Moist, rich, well-drained |
| Spacing | 4–6 feet apart, depending on how large you want the mature clump |
| Origin | Bred by Paul Aden, introduced in 1980 |
Why Gardeners Choose This Cultivar
Sum and Substance earned its reputation due to a few key factors besides its large size. The leaves are thick, almost tougher than many other hosta cultivars, which makes it more slug- and snail-resistant. Note that it is not completely resistant, only somewhat more so than a thin-leaved hosta that has also been in the garden for several years.
The color is another major appeal. The leaves usually start out a cooler chartreuse green in spring, then deepen in both their golden color and corrugated texture as the plant matures through the growing season and receives more sunlight. This variation in appearance means that the plant won’t look the same in June as it does in August.
This hosta is also more sun-tolerant than most hostas. While most hostas are shade plants, Sum and Substance can tolerate several hours of morning sun, and in the cool, northern part of the US can often tolerate more sun with little risk of leaf scorches.
Light Requirements: The Detail Most Guides Get Wrong
While most hosta growing guides would simply say this plant prefers “part sun to full shade,” there’s an important nuance that is easy to miss. This plant is more tolerant of sun, but more sun leads to a different balance of leaf color.
In general, more sun = more gold coloration, while less sun will result in leaves that are a cool green and slightly larger in size, since the plant is not putting as much energy into resisting the sunlight. If you want maximum gold color, choose a spot that receives morning sun with afternoon shade, or more shade if you live in a hot climate like much of the South and Southwest. Too much sun in these areas will cause the leaves to sun-scorch (turn crispy brown), which will not recover even once the plant has grown new leaves.
In the Upper Midwest and Northeast, this plant can actually tolerate closer to full sun (as opposed to the shade most hostas require), as long as it is well-watered. If you garden in the Deep South or Southwest, be sure to treat this as more of a part-shade to full-shade hosta. If your spot bakes in full sun all day, our list of heat-tolerant plants for full sun has better fits.
Soil, Watering, and Feeding
Sum and Substance needs rich, well-drained, consistently moist (not soggy) soil in order to thrive. Avoid planting this in soggy areas where the water has pooled after a rain, especially if you have a heavy clay soil common to the Midwest and mid Atlantic regions. Amending the planting area with 2-3″ of compost prior to planting will improve the drainage in most cases, especially if you have a heavy clay soil.
Established plants will be more tolerant of brief periods of dryness, but consistent moisture will lead to the largest leaves. Using a 2-3″ layer of mulch will help with both retaining moisture and insulating the plant from summer heat.
A light application of a balanced, slow release fertilizer in early spring when new growth first appears should be sufficient for feeding this plant. Avoid feeding throughout the growing season, as it will not lead to visibly better growth and can encourage floppy, slug- and wind-susceptible growth.
Planting and Spacing
Since this plant can reach 5-6′ across (and sometimes up to 8′ or 9′ in especially ideal conditions), spacing is the most critical consideration when planting Sum and Substance, and the single biggest mistake made by home gardeners planting this cultivar. A single division planted now will appear quite small, and it can be tempting to plant it closely alongside other perennials. In 3-4 years, that same division will have engulfed whatever was nearby.
When deciding where to place a division, allow 4-6′ of space between it and any other perennials or plants (not just hostas). If planting as a specimen (which is how most landscapers use it), plan on either using smaller hostas or shade loving perennials (like ferns or astilbe) to surround it when it reaches its full size, instead of planting it tightly alongside other plants when it’s small.
The best time to plant or transplant hostas anywhere in the continental US is in the fall or early spring, to give them time to establish roots before the summer heat arrives.
Quick Planting Checklist
- Choose a spot with morning sun and afternoon shade (more shade in hot climates).
- Work 2–3″ of compost into the planting area, especially in heavy clay.
- Space the plant 4–6 feet from other perennials and plants.
- Plant in fall or early spring so roots establish before summer heat.
- Water deeply, then add a 2–3″ layer of mulch, keeping it off the crown.
- Apply a light, slow-release fertilizer once in early spring.
Seasonal Care
Spring
New leaves (“eyes”) will appear and begin to unfurl. This is the time to apply your only annual fertilizer application, and it’s also the best time to check for slug activity, since tender new leaves are more likely to be damaged.
Summer
Flower scapes will appear in midsummer (typically July), bearing pale lavender blooms that attract hummingbirds. Deadheading the flower scapes after the blooms have faded is not necessary but does help the plant put more energy into the leaves instead of flowers.
Fall
Leaves will die back and turn to a brown color after the first hard frost. This is normal and nothing to worry about, and the entire fan of leaves should be cut back to the ground after it has died back entirely to help prevent slug eggs, diseases, and insects overwintering on the dead leaves.
Winter
Hostas are herbaceous perennials, meaning their leaves die back to the ground every winter, but new leaves will appear every spring from the crown. No special winter protection is necessary, but a layer of mulch after the ground has first frozen can help protect the crown from harsh winter cold, especially in Zone 3 and 4.
Common Problems and How to Recognize Them
Leaf Scorch
Bleached, crispy patches along the leaf edges, often on the side of the plant that has been in more sun. This is a sign of sun and heat damage, not a pest or disease. Fix this by providing more shade (especially in the afternoon) or more consistent watering, not a pesticide or special treatment.
Slug and Snail Damage
Ragged holes in leaves, often with a slimy trail visible. This plant is generally more resistant than many other hostas due to the thickness of its leaves, but it is not completely slug-proof. Young leaves in the spring are especially vulnerable. Beer traps, iron phosphate slug bait, and reducing hiding places (especially dense mulch right next to the crown of the plant) are the best ways to control slugs and snails.
Slow to Reach Mature Size
This is usually related to improper spacing, light, or watering, not a problem with the plant. In general, most hostas take 3-5 years to reach their full size, and this cultivar is especially large.
Deer Browsing
Hostas are one of the plants most commonly browsed by deer, and unfortunately this includes Sum and Substance despite its thick leaves. If deer are a problem where you live, this is a definite consideration before planting this cultivar.
Vole and Rodent Damage to the Crown
Voles or other rodents may chew on the crown. This is less common but also a possibility, especially if you have a heavy layer of mulch over the winter that has provided a warm spot for voles to nest.
Propagation and Division
Sum and Substance can be divided, though it is a fairly large plant, so dividing a mature clump is more work than dividing a smaller hosta. Early spring or early fall are the best times to divide, when new growth has just begun to appear. Dig around the clump and lift it out of the ground, then use a spade or knife to divide off sections that have several healthy “eyes” and a decent amount of roots attached.
Propagating plants for your own garden is fine. Some hosta cultivars are patented or trademarked, though, so check the plant tag and get permission before selling divisions.
What to Plant Around It
Due to this plant’s large size and golden coloration, it makes the best companion plant for other large hostas or shade-loving perennials rather than a mixed bed of small hostas. Some good options to plant near Sum and Substance include:
- Ferns – for a nice textural contrast to the large, glossy leaves of the hosta
- Astilbe – to provide a nice pop of color when the hosta is in its green phase
- Heuchera (coral bells) – these low-growing perennials won’t fight the hosta for space
- Japanese maple – its dappled shade suits hostas; see PlazmaHomes’ Bloodgood Japanese maple care guide
- Azaleas – shade-tolerant shrubs that bloom before the hosta fills in; see our azalea planting and care guide
- Smaller hostas with contrasting leaf colors (like blue or variegated) – planted on the edge of where Sum and Substance will eventually spread
Avoid planting delicate or slow-growing perennials directly next to a young division of Sum and Substance. As the division fills in and grows larger, it will out-compete most smaller perennials for sunlight and root space.
Sum and Substance vs. Other Large Hostas
| Cultivar | Mature Size | Leaf Color | Sun Tolerance | Notable Trait |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Sum and Substance | 2–3′ x 5–6′ | Chartreuse to gold | High for a hosta | Thick, slug-resistant leaves |
| Empress Wu | 3–4′ x 4–5′ | Deep blue-green | Moderate | Among the largest hostas available |
| Blue Angel | 2–3′ x 4–5′ | Blue-green | Low (prefers shade) | Strong blue color, classic look |
| Guacamole | 1.5–2′ x 3–4′ | Green with gold center | Moderate | Fragrant flowers, smaller footprint |
If garden space is limited, Guacamole gives some of the same gold-green coloring in roughly half the footprint and if you specifically want the biggest possible hosta and don’t mind blue-green rather than gold tones, Empress Wu is the main rival in terms of scale. For a detailed look at another popular large blue-leaved option, see PlazmaHomes’ Hosta ‘Blue Angel’ care and growing guide.
Frequently Asked Questions
How big does Sum and Substance hosta actually get?
Most mature plants measure 2-3′ tall by 5-6′ wide, though some sources indicate that in ideal conditions (rich, moist soil and after several years of growth) they can spread up to 8 or 9′ wide.
Does Sum and Substance need sun or shade?
Part sun to full shade, with morning sun and afternoon shade being ideal for this hosta. In northern climates it can often tolerate more sun.
How many years does it take to reach full size?
It usually takes 3-5 years from a small division to a mature clump, though hostas in general are fairly slow growers.
Is Sum and Substance really slug-resistant?
It has tougher, thicker leaves than many other hosta cultivars and is therefore more slug- and snail-resistant, but it is not completely resistant. Young leaves in the spring can still be damaged by slugs or snails.
Can I grow Sum and Substance in a container?
It can be grown in containers, but it requires a fairly large pot (at least 18-24″) and more frequent watering than it would need in the ground. Most hosta lovers find it easier to grow this one in the ground instead of in containers due to its mature size.
When should I divide Sum and Substance hosta?
Early spring or early fall, when new growth is just beginning.
Why are my hosta’s leaves turning green instead of staying gold?
This usually indicates that the plant is not receiving enough sunlight. More sun increases the gold coloration of the leaves, so try a spot with more morning sun. In hot climates, still protect it from harsh afternoon sun to avoid scorch.
Sources & References
- University of Minnesota Extension — Growing Hostas
- University of Nebraska-Lincoln Extension — Hostas (NebGuide G1683)